On the tiny, remote islands of the Faroes, the villages feel like they have been stalling in time. Small, colorful churches that host services for families that have lived there for generations; ever charming turf-roofed houses that have long withstood the brutal North Atlantic winds; the locals that refuse to leave their villages behind. The beautiful nature may attract many visitors to the Faroe Islands, but no trip to the Faroes is complete without visiting and experiencing these villages for yourself. I had the chance to visit many villages during my week on the islands, and have compiled a list of just 5 that I enjoyed the most!
The view from the short walk around Gjógv’s harbor Gjógv’s natural harbor
Gjógv, Eysturoy
Gjógv (which literally translates to ‘gorge’) is a popular tourist destination, particularly for, you guessed it, its 200m long gorge/natural harbor. You can take the stairs down into the actual gorge, or just observe from above (as pictured above on the right). There is also a short path around the harbor that leads to a great view of the mountain next to Gjógv.
As the northernmost village on Eysturoy, the village also boasts great views of the neighboring island of Kalsoy. Unlike many other villages in the Faroe Islands, Gjógv has a guesthouse in town if you are interested in staying here!
The rocky beach of Dalur Some of the iconic Faroese houses in the village
Dalur, Sandoy
Because so much of the Faroes are jagged cliffs that jut out over the sea, beaches are rare, and that much more visiting when you have the chance. Dalur is situated at the bottom of a very large valley, right next to my favorite beach we visited on the trip (though I certainly would not swim here!). Instead of sand, this beach is covered in rocks, smoothed over centuries upon centuries of erosion. The sound of these rocks rolling onto each other every time a wave receded was incredible, and I wish I could go back just to spend an entire day listening to that sound.
Apart from the beautiful beach, the locals here were very nice (local dogs included, of course!). Though I could not listen in great (because I don’t speak Danish, unfortunately), other members in my tour group were chatting with the locals here. They seemed very willing to talk about living in the village, and, from what was translated back to me, it seems that villages around the Faroes are sadly becoming smaller and smaller. Because work can be scarce, many people are often moving to the capital, Tórshavn, or abroad (often to Denmark). I was there in the middle of the summer, so many people were away on vacation or just visiting another island for the day, making the villages seem even smaller than they already were. I imagine this puts a larger emphasis on the need for tourism in the villages, so I highly recommend, as always, supporting village/local businesses whenever possible!
The view of Risin og Kellingin from Tjørnuvík Homemade waffles at Privat Kafé
Tjørnuvík, Streymoy
Located on Streymoy, this village is where you can see the best view of Risin og Kellingin (The Giant and the Witch). Legend has it that these rock formations are actually the remains of an Icelandic giant and witch, who were so enamored with the Faroe Islands that they attempted to drag the islands back to their home country. Unfortunately, they did not realize that the sun was rising, and it froze them into stone where the rock stacks are today (talk about caught red handed!). Though there seems to be no great way to see them up close (or at least closer than from Tjørnuvík), they are truly iconic to the Faroes and are definitely worth a look!
My number one recommendation for this village (and quite possibly, this post) are the waffles (Privat Kafé on Google Maps)! A nice local man makes them for visitors in his kitchen and serves you in his living room, and it was quite possibly the best I’ve ever had. Waffles with whipped cream and rhubarb jam – all homemade – truly cannot be beat. His inviting and hospitable nature and the waffles made this one of my favorite memories on the trip. As mentioned above, supporting local businesses is a great way to support the Faroese people, and this is just one of the many amazing locally owned establishments.
Apart from Privat Kafé, Tjørnuvík is also the home of Faroe Islands Surf Guide, who offer surf rental/lessons and other water activity rental (if you can believe that you can surf here), and the very cute Tjørnuvík Kirkja.
Kirkjubømúrurin Kirkjubøargarður (& the sweetest “guard” dog)
Kirkjubøur, Streymoy
Kirkjubøur, home to Kirkjubømúrurin, Ólavskirkja, and Kirkjubøargarður, is considered the Faroes’ most historically valuable village, and a quick visit makes it incredibly clear why.
Kirkjubømùrurin, or the St. Magnus Cathedral Ruins, are the largest medieval ruins left on the Faroe Islands, dating back to 1300. I would recommend walking through the ruins, especially as they are open to the public and free to walk around! The ruins were so much larger than I expected, and surprisingly very intact as well. Ólavskirkja, St. Ólav’s Church, is right next door. Though tourists are typically not allowed to enter, it still made for a very charming view from the outside. It is the oldest church in the Faroe Islands to still be in use today. Kirkjubøargarður, also called King’s Farm, is one of the oldest inhabited houses in the world. The Patursson family has lived here for generations, and now opens part of the house (the sitting room, called Roykstovan) to the public as a museum. There are many artifacts and plans for the Kirjubømùrurin renovation inside, all for just a small fee at the entrance!
There is also a great 2 hour hike (rated moderate and good for kids) from Kirkjubøur to Tórshavn. You’ll see a few lakes, tons of sheep (obviously), a wonderful view of Tórshavn, and Reynsmúlalág on your way back to the city!
The quaint houses of Nólsoy A view of Eggjarklettur
Nólsoy, Nólsoy
Nólsoy, which is an island and a village, is only a 30 minute ferry ride from Tórshavn. The village boasts great views of Eggjarklettur, the highest mountain on the island. Many hike around the mountain, but I saw some going up the mountain as well (it’s not very tall at just 372m)!
I was on a group trip with many of the members interested in bird watching, so we visited Nólsoy mainly to pay a visit to the bird man, Jens Kjeld Jensen (you can also book guided tours from him via his website/email). He seems to be somewhat of a celebrity in these parts; his house/taxidermy workshop is even featured on signs throughout the village (you can visit his taxidermy workshop for a small fee). In addition to knowing so much about the birds and history of the Faroes, he has planted what he believes to be the largest variety of plants on the islands in a little garden in the center of town.
Apart from Jensen’s workshop and garden, the whalebone gate and the beach are great spots to check out in the village!
After Jensen gave us a short tour of the village and talked to us about the various birds inhabiting the Faroe Islands, he led us on a short hike around part of Eggjarklettur. Before reaching the base of the mountain, there are some small ruins, Prinsessutoftir/Korndalur, that made for a great place for us to sit and eat our lunch. According to legend, a Scottish princess and her husband ran away and lived here after her father, the king, disapproved of her marrying a commoner. We then saw a great view of some cliffs and Nólsoy village, and afterwards partially climbed Eggjarklettur to a quite secret spot, called Uppi í Skipi (Up in the Ship). The spot, well hidden by rocks and barely visible from the ground, used to be a hideout from pirates. We turned around after that, but you longer hikes around the island are possible as well. You can read more about the longer hike, specifically Nólsoy to Borðan, here.
Though I was slightly worried that seeing so many villages during our trip would get too repetitive, I was proven so wrong. Each village boasts amazing views, wonderful locals, and the cutest houses and churches (per Faroese norm)! It was certainly difficult to choose, but these 5 villages were by far some of my absolute favorite spots in the Faroe Islands. As you’ll notice in the map above, these villages truly span many islands of the country, and make for some great spots to add to a road trip itinerary of the Faroes! For me, these villages are ones that I look forward to revisiting if/when I return to the Faroe Islands!